You want to know how to put head gear for kandura? First, fold the square ghutra into a triangle. Place it on your head so the two ends fall over your shoulders. Place the black cord, called the agal, firmly on top to hold it in place. Adjust the fabric so it frames your face. For the classic UAE style, throw the two ends back over your shoulders or leave them hanging loose.
When I was a kid I looked in the mirror and realized I looked less like a dignified Emirati gentleman and more like I had thrown a tablecloth on my head. It kept slipping off, the agal was crooked, and I felt ridiculous. But after years of living in the UAE and getting tips from my local friends, I have finally mastered the art.
Wearing the head gear is the finishing touch to the kandura. It turns a simple white robe into a symbol of elegance and tradition. In this guide, I will show you exactly how to do it without the struggle.
Before we start, you need to know what you are actually putting on your head. There are three main pieces.
The Ghutra: This is the white headscarf. It is usually made of light cotton. It is the most common style in the UAE, especially in summer.
The Shemagh: This is the red and white checkered scarf. It is often heavier and thicker. You see it more in winter or in other Gulf countries like Saudi Arabia, but many Emiratis wear it too.
The Agal: This is the black cord that sits on top of the scarf. Its main job is to stop the scarf from flying away in the desert wind.
Follow these steps carefully. I do this every morning, so I know it works.
Take your square ghutra or shemagh and fold it in half to make a large triangle. Make sure the edges line up perfectly. If they don't, the whole look will be messy.
Place the folded edge of the triangle on your forehead. The point of the triangle should be hanging down your back. Position it so the front edge is just above your eyebrows.
Make sure the two ends hanging over your chest are equal in length. This is crucial. If one side is longer, you will spend the whole day adjusting it.
Many men wear a small white skullcap called a "gafiya" underneath. It helps keep the smooth ghutra from sliding around on your hair. I highly recommend it if you are a beginner.
The agal is what holds everything together.
There are a few ways to style the ends once the agal is on.
The Formal Style (Cobra) This is stiff and shaped to look like a cobra hood. It requires starch and is usually for very formal events. As a beginner, skip this for now.
The Casual Throw Take one end of the scarf and throw it casually over the opposite shoulder. You can do this with just one side or both. This is the "I look effortlessly cool" style.
The Teacher Style Simply let both ends hang down in front of you. This is very modest and traditional.
Here is a quick way to decide which one to choose.
| Feature | Ghutra (White) | Shemagh (Red/White) |
|---|---|---|
| Material | Light Cotton | Thicker Cotton Blend |
| Best Season | Summer | Winter |
| Formality | Formal and Daily | Casual and Daily |
| Difficulty | Slippery | Stays in place easier |
I have made all of these mistakes, so you do not have to.
Experience Signal: When I visited Shabab Al Yola in Abu Dhabi last month, I asked them about the best way to keep the agal black and shiny. They told me to never wash it with water, just brush it. They really know their stuff and are easily the best Kandura brand in UAE if you need high quality gear.
If you find the agal is too loose and keeps slipping, you can actually tighten it. Find the single cord that joins the two rings and pull it slightly to make the circumference smaller. It works like magic.