
Imtiaz Ahmed - Head of Tailoring Team
Mr. Imtiaz Ahmed is working as a head of tailoring department at Shabab Al Yola. Over nearly two decades, he has worked with local clients across the Gulf and international customers who expect Gulf-standard tailoring delivered to their door. His hands-on experience covers every major regional style, including Emirati, Saudi, Qatari, Kuwaiti, and Omani cuts, along with the fine details that separate a well-made thobe from a great one. At Shahbab Al Yola, Imtiaz personally oversees the construction of every regional silhouette the brand produces. He knows Gulf garment-making inside out and brings that knowledge into every piece the brand produces.
Winter kandura, thobe and dishdasha are made mainly from wool and polyester fabrics.
Wool is the first choice because it is warm, soft and breathable. Polyester is a common budget fabric because it is strong, warm, and affordable.
The wool used in the UAE market is imported from China, Korea, Japan, the United Kingdom, Italy and Australia. The same winter fabrics are used for all three garments. In this article, I will cover the four fabric types preferred by men in GCC, and available in our winter collection, listed from the most premium to the most affordable.
Next, we explain the grading numbers you will see on winter wool.
Super is a grading system for wool. The number after the word Super tells you how fine the wool fibres are. Fineness is measured in microns. A micron is one thousandth of a millimetre. A higher Super number means thinner fibres. Thinner fibres make the fabric softer and smoother. They also give a lighter and more refined feel on the skin. This is why higher Super grades are linked with luxury wool.
Grade | Fibre Diameter | Feel |
Super 110 | Up to about 18 microns | Soft and Smooth |
Super 130 | Up to about 17.5 microns | Finer and Smoother |
Super 150 | Up to about 16 microns | Very Fine & Very Smooth |
Very fine fibres are more delicate. Fabrics with a very high Super number are sensitive but heavier and must be handled carefully.
The Super number describes the fibre only. It says nothing about the weave, the weight or the finishing of the fabric. A Super number written on a label can also differ from the real fabric. Handfeel, GSM, and price give you a clearer picture.
There are hundreds of fabric material in UAE market for winters. But, we will only discuss the most commonly used fabrics for winters that are loved by Emirati nationals. Here they are:
Let's discuss each type in detail.

Italian wool is the most premium winter fabric for kandura, thobe and dishdasha. It is also the most used. Italy has a long history of textile weaving, and its fabrics are known for a smooth handfeel and a clean fall. The Italian fabrics in our collection come from the brand Loreno. There are two grades:
Both Loreno grades come in a wide range of shades.

British wool comes second after Italian wool. Montgomery England is the British brand in our collection. Handfeel and weight are the best way to judge how the fabric will perform. The fabric is labelled Super 150. The weight of fabric is only 126.5 GSM and the price range is 1,000 to 1,200 AED.
At 126.5 GSM, this is the lightest fabric in our collection. You can style it in mild winter weather, the cooler weeks at the start and end of the season, and even in peak cold days.

Chinese wool ranks third. Rabdan is the Chinese brand in our collection and it is labelled Super 150. It is made of 60% wool and 40% polyester. The weight of this fabric is about 185 grams per meter square and the price range lies between 800 to 1,000 AED per dress. At 185 GSM, Rabdan is heavier than both Loreno fabrics and the Montgomery fabric, so it feels warm on cold days. It also has the widest range in the collection, with 16 shades.

Indian fabrics are the most affordable in the collection. Both are priced at 350 to 450 AED.
Neither carries a Super grade.
Origin | Brand | Super Label | GSM | Price Per Dress |
Italian | Loreno | Super 110 | 135 | 2,000-2,300 AED |
Italian | Loreno | Super 120 | 178 | 2,200-2,500 AED |
British | Montgomery | Super 150 | 125.5 | 1,000-1,200 AED |
Chinese | Rabdan | Super 150 | 185 | 800-1,000 AED |
Indian | Fedrigo | No Label | 135 | 350-450 AED |
Indian | Legend | No Label | 208 | 350-450 AED |
Wool and polyester are the two most common fabrics in winter kandura, thobe and dishdasha fabrics. People choose them for different reasons such as warmth, softness, wrinkle-resistant properties, and comfort. Let's see each one in detail.
Wool is a natural fibre that mostly comes from sheep. Its can trap air, which keeps body heat close to the skin. Wool is also breathable and absorbs moisture, so it feels very comfortable when the temperature changes during the day. It has a soft and smooth fall, which gives a kandura or thobe a decent look. The downsides are the higher price and the need for careful cleaning.
Polyester is a man-made fibre. It is strong, resists wrinkles and holds its shape after many wears. It is easy to wash and costs less than wool. Polyester does not breathe as well as wool, which can matter during long days indoors.
Many winter fabrics mix wool with polyester. The wool adds warmth and softness. The polyester adds strength and wrinkle resistance. Blends are popular because they keep the price lower and make daily care easier.
Wool in the UAE market is imported from China, Korea, Japan, the United Kingdom, Italy and Australia. The country of origin matters because each mill has its own weaving standards and finishing methods. These details change how a fabric feels and how well it holds up over time. Our winter collection has fabrics from Italy, the United Kingdom, China and India.
Italian wool is the most premium and the most used choice winter fabric. Loreno Super 110 suits lighter winter days and Loreno Super 120 suits colder days.
Super 150 has finer fires, so it usually feels softer. Finer fibres are also more delicate. The weave, the GSM and the quality of the mill matter too. Must check these things before buying.
Yes. Polyester is widely used in winter fabrics, mostly in blends with wool. It provides strength and wrinkle resistance properties to the fabric.
It depends on the weather and your own comfort. If you love lightweight fabric go for fabric with GSM range bewteen 120 to 160. If you like heavier fabric, choose a fabric with GSM 170 to 210.